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The King's Highway to Petra!

8/4/2011

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Visit Jordan
My one-week Spring Break 2011 trip to the ​Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan sets Madaba - the city of Mosaics - as my home base. ​Madaba is located just 30 min from the capital city and it's well known for housing a 6th century mosaic depicting Jerusalem and parts of the Holy Land.
I chose Madaba as my home base due to its proximity to the capital, it is void of traffic and it still conserves its small town charm.

From my hotel in Madaba, I was able to organize my daily tours to The Dead Sea, the hot springs and Jerash as well as being my departure city to my onward journey to ​Petra and ​Aqaba.
Road sign to the Dead Sea
So many options! Which way to go?

Mukawir:

​​Almost an hour away from Madaba, you come across Mukawir while enjoying the Jordanian countryside This site is perched on a hill top and it's quite a hike as there is no other way to get there but walking  for approximately 15 min. Once at the top of the hill, you will notice that this site is merely a pile of ruble with a few standing columns. Nonetheless, you can somewhat imagine what it would have looked like back in the days as a secure summer palace overlooking the Dead Sea. 
The importance and significance of this site is that King Herod of Israel rebuilt this complex after being proclaimed king by the Roman Senate and it was here that John the Baptist was imprisoned and then  beheaded after Salome's fateful dance. (​Matthew 14: 1-12)     
  • Mt. Nebo is also within short distance and it's the place where Moses was granted a view of the promised land. It is also the site where late Pope John Paul II held mass attended by over 20 thousand faithfuls. There's a museum here with Byzantine mosaics and the place for breathtaking views of the Dead Sea and Palestine Jericho. 

  • Hammamat Ma'in:
​​This thermal spring is located just southwest of Madaba and it is said to be the preferred hot spring that Herod would use to cure his ailments. As you can see, the main waterfall gushes down from a cliff and is channeled to baths and pools underneath with water temperatures that range between 40 - 60 degrees Celsius.
In order to gain access to these pools and baths, you need to pay a 1-day pass as this site is located within a modern spa resort.    
Hammamat Ma'in

The Dead Sea:

​​Nothing says positive buoyancy​ than floating on this hypersalinated water. The tourist fad here is to have your photo taken while floating and reading a newspaper. Sadly I could not fulfill this fad, hence the photo below.

Word of advise:
Floating on these waters has a greasy feel to it and while in it, you have to make sure that you do not get any of it into your eyes, nose, ears and by all means, avoid getting in if you have any cuts or bruises as the hypersalinated water will make them sting.
You also need to be careful while walking around the shore as some of the salt rocks may be pointy and could easily cut you.
Floating in the Dead Sea

Jerash:

Located north of the capital ​Amman, this site boosts the largest and best preserved Roman ruins in the entire Middle East. Jerash, second only to Petra, used to be part of the Decapolis (ten cities) that were part of Federation of Greek cities. Later on, the Roman Emperor Hadrian made this city his favorite and so it prospered economically and socially. Nowadays, Hadrian's Arch can still be seen and it is the location were you pay your entry fee into this site. 

As per WikiTravel:
"The Visitor's Centre is located at the entrance to the archaeological park (just south of the Hippodrome and the Arch). The site is poorly signposted, so be sure to pick up a map to orient yourself and understand what you are seeing. The ruins are fairly extensive, but it's not hard to see everything in a matter of hours. It is unlikely that visitors will miss anything important, but some of the notable sites are:
  • Forum (Oval Plaza) - an unusual wide, asymmetrical plaza at the beginning of the Cardo (or Colonnaded Street), built in the 1st century AD. The Oval Plaza is 80 m by 90 m (262 ft by 295 ft) and is enclosed by 160 Ionic columns.
  • The Cardo - a 600 m (660 yards) colonnaded street that runs the length of the city. It was once lined with the city's major buildings, shops and residences. A complex drainage system lies below the stone paving. Look for chariot tracks in the stone.
  • Agora - the city's main food market, which has a central fountain.
  • Nymphaeum - an ornate public fountain that was decorated with lions heads and dedicated to the nymphs.
  • Temple of Artemis - impressive temple ruins dedicated to the patron goddess of the city.
  • South Theater - an amphitheatre that seats up to 3000. It is occasionally used today for concerts and musical productions. Daily features include bag pipers in traditional Jordanian military dress.
  • Jerash Archaeological Museum - features a collection of artifacts found during excavation, including coins, statuary and sarcophagi."

It is also worth noting and checking out the recreation of a Roman chariot race full with legionnaires and gladiators. These performance is known as The Roman Army and Chariot Experience. For more info, check out their site here.
The Oval Plaza in Jerash
At the Forum to Oval Plaza.

Ajlun Castle:

​​This castle/fortress is located near Jerash and it is important to Islam as it prevented the Crusaders from capturing the castle and the nearby village while also protecting the three main routes to the Jordan Valley​ and the commercial routes between Jordan and Syria.

From within you can almost get lost in its maze of passages while the upper part of the castle offers panoramic views of the surrounding area, northwest Jordan and even Galilee. 
From here on, I left behind the charming city of mosaics, Madaba, and started my journey to the southern part of the country going to Petra, Wadi Rum and then heading to the port city of Aqaba to go SCUBA diving on the Red Sea!

Wadi Rum:​

Let Wadi Rum transport you to Mars! It's cheaper and safer, a no brainer! No wonder Wadi Rum was chosen as the backdrop for the film The Martian (among others)! It's Jordan's longest, most known and most surreal landscape that transports you to Mars while still being on Earth. This vast and isolated but impressive out-of-this-world wadi landscape is home to several unique rock formations, as the one shown here, weathered throughout the years. These rock formations as well as the surrounding sand dunes are either red, rusty-like in color or brown, goldenish. Read more on my bio link: Destinations➡Asia➡️Middle East➡️Jordan #LiveTravelChannel #MyBudgetTravel #natgeotravel #earthpix #travel #top10thursday #TLPicks #TBSCommunity #travelandlife #travelporn #travelpics #travelbug #travelawesome #tripadvisor #planetoutdoor #keepuptheadventure #WorldTravelGuide ‪#globalcitizen #travelgram #TravelerinJordan #travelination #smartertravel‬ #travelblog #travelstoke #el_musafir #wadirum #jordan #desert #themartian #panameñosporelmundo @myjordanjourney @visitjordan

Una foto publicada por ريكاردو Calderón (@el_musafir) el 3 de May de 2016 a la(s) 8:37 PDT

​A UNESCO World Heritage site. This barren, isolated yet vast place is where Lawrence of Arabia and former Prince Faisal bin Hussein based their headquarters during the Arab revolt against the Ottomans during WWI. 

Now go watch the movie and then come back to continue reading!

During my visit to Wadi Rum, I met two bedouins who offered me for a good price a tour of Wadi Rum (a day tour with an overnight stay in the middle of nowhere), guidance at Petra and then they would drive me to my last point of interest, Aqaba; which I then accepted.

Some of my highlights here include:
  • Jebel Umm Fruth (Middle Rock Bridge/Arch): A lower rock bridge which is featured on many tours and can be easily scrambled onto. The climbing takes 5-15 minutes depending on your fitness.
  • The micro-light: This was indeed a magnificent eagle's eye experience over Wadi Rum seeing where the red sand dunes and the light sand dunes meet and flying over an impressive rock formation known as the Seven Pillars of Wisdom which were named after T.E. Lawrence's book.
  • A full-on bedouin meal.
  • Spending the night in the desert and experiencing the temperature drop to its teens! ... brrr!
Micro-light in Wadi Rum

The rose-red city of Petra: ​

​​Without any doubt, one of the 7 wonders of the World and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

​This site is best seen in 2 days unless you have the ambitious plan of a 1-day visit to which I would advise you to head there as soon as they open at 6 a.m. and then start making your way out before they whisk you out near closing time at 6 p.m. (depending the season) which is what I did. Nonetheless, I wished I had budgeted an extra day as I would have wanted to make a day hike/donkey ride (approx. 5+ hr) to visit the shrine of the Prophet Aaron, Moses' elder brother. 

«Al-Khanzneh» #throwback to 2011 . This massive carved out facade is found within the many wonders that make up the rose-red city of #Petra. #new7wondersoftheworld . Read more on my bio link or directly @ el-musafir.com/yalla

Una publicación compartida de ريكاردو Calderón (@el_musafir) el 21 Abr, 2018 a las 7:07 PDT

​During spring time expect rain showers so make sure you check the weather forecast before adventuring into Petra so as to not get washed out by flooding. I mention this because I had booked myself into the Seven Wonders Bedouin Camp because as they mention on their site, I wanted to fully experience the bedouin life especially in this part of the world.

As a result, I chose a tent for myself with breakfast included and don't get me wrong because this is a neat location and their service is superb but on my first night there, it started to rain and the downpour was such that at some point I wished I had been at a hotel where I did not have to worry about water getting into the tent.

In short, the staff worked at God's speed to properly cover almost everything as to avoid any water leakage; I slept well and the blankets kept me warm throughout the wet and cold night. The following day, I moved into a hotel!
Seven Wonders Bedouin Camp
Navigating Petra:
Once you have paid your entrance fee, you should walk through the almost 2 km long gorge known as the Siq that will lead you through a winding path along old terra-cotta Roman water pipes to the most photographed structure in Petra, the Treasury or Al-Khanz.
​Although you cannot enter the structure, it is worth taking note of the bullet prints on the side of the columns as well as the urn at the very top from which many had speculated that a treasure had been hidden inside.

That moment when you exit the Siq and you come face to face with the Treasury or Al Khazna ... which is neatly decorated with friezes, Corinthian columns and crowned with a royal urn. These details and more showcase the engineering genius of the Nabataeans. . The Siq is a rock canal/pathway that was the ancient main entrance leading to Petra. You can still see parts of the original stone slabs that form the pavement. . Read more on my bio link: Destinations➡Asia➡️Middle East➡️Jordan . #LiveTravelChannel #MyBudgetTravel #natgeotravel #earthpix #travel #top10thursday #panameñosporelmundo #TBSCommunity #travelandlife #travelporn #travelpics #travelbug #travelawesome #tripadvisor #planetoutdoor #keepuptheadventure #WorldTravelGuide ‪#globalcitizen #travelgram #TravelerinJordan #travelination #smartertravel‬ #petra #jordan #el_musafir #travelblogger @visitjordan @visit_petra

Una foto publicada por ريكاردو Calderón (@el_musafir) el 4 de May de 2016 a la(s) 9:09 PDT

Next stop:

​The street of Façades which is a canyon lined with various monumental Nabataean tombs which you can take your time to explore as they are massive and well decorated. Afterwards, I continued to the Roman Theater which used to host close to four thousand spectators and it is located at the foot of the High Place of Sacrifice, high place from which I took my aerial views of Petra down below.

From there, I took my time in following the map that I photographed and followed it religiously. On the way, I came across more temples, more tombs and what would have been a garden and a pond in the good old days. For a complete listing of these sites, please go here.

A suggested group of trails appear here while WikiTravel suggests the following routes:
​
"For the terminally energetic, there are a number of popular hikes around Petra: 
  • In order to understand what in reality Petra is, it is better to spend two days there. The first day: Siq - Treasury - City - Monastery (entry cost as of February 2014 is 55JD for two days ticket). The second day: another way to Petra through Wadi Muthlim - see the Treasury from above on Jebel Al -Khubtha - High Place of Sacrifice. If you enter Petra through Wadi Muthlim do not turn left immediately after the small Siq, first go right to see Aqueduct, Tunnel and Al-Wu'eira Fort and only after that return to Petra center. It may not be possible to go through this route due to excess water in it. It's not recommended doing this route without a guide.
  • The High Place of Sacrifice - The site at the top of the mountain contains elaborate rock altars used for sacrifices. From the High Place, one can view much of Petra from above. Beautiful scenery. It can get cold and windy up there. The trek down the back side of the mountain reveals many interesting tombs and carvings that might be missed by the average tourist. The round trip generally takes 1.5-2.5 hours. Not many people go through the back route as it's not always clear where it starts - ask."

As you continue the trail, you will also come across the Great Temple and the Colonnaded Street.

Next stop: 
The Monastery which in Arabic is Al-Dayr and it is the largest carved monument in Petra. Once inside you may be a little disappointed as there is no significant comparison to its outer façade. It received its name as it used to be used as a Christian chapel and a meeting place for religious associations.
To get here, you need to walk uphill 800+ steps which may take close to an hour depending on your physical condition and the inclement weather. I hope you noted the emphasis placed on walking as it is recommended to avoid hiring donkeys to make this trip due to the treatment they receive especially during a hot day.

Final stop on this trail:
No other than the apocalyptic Rift Valley's "view of the end of the world"!
After a full day of exploration, I made it to one of the local bedouin restaurants within Petra to relax, have some tea and a snack. It did not take that long after I became a good friend of one of the ladies serving who in turn convinced me of one final trail. I caved in and took the offer of riding a donkey to the exit of this site to meet her family who lived all the way out in Little Petra. I do have to admit that after feeling like a tomb raider on Indiana Jones, the donkey ride was quite a relief to my feet.

In the photo below, I am posing in front of one of the oldest olive trees within Petra.  

¡Feliz Navidad!: Celebrating the birth of #Jesus — the prophet, the Messiah and the “Word” of God. #throwback . □ Con mi burrito #sabanero voy camino de Belén. .
Si me ven, si me ven, voy camino de Belén. (x2) . Tuqui tuqui tuqui tuqui, tuqui tuqui tuqui tu Apúrate mi #burrito vamos a ver a Jesús. □

Una publicación compartida de ريكاردو Calderón (@el_musafir) el 25 Dic, 2016 a las 4:36 PST

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